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I’ve never been particularly loyal to a skin-care product. I love to experiment with formulas and ingredients—and for a beauty editor, this mindset is all but a requirement. I’ve been lucky that for many years my skin was equally game; I didn’t often experience adverse reactions to new or potent products.
But suddenly last spring, my skin became fussy. It looked increasingly uneven, and rashy red bumps formed on various parts of my cheeks, rocking my confidence. I minimized my use of strong retinols and chemical exfoliants and swapped in redness-fighting products like aloe-soaked sheet masks, but nothing was working. Finally, I was at the dermatologist for an unrelated cosmetic treatment and sheepishly mentioned to her how splotchy my skin looked. She studied my face for a few seconds before saying, “Well, you know you have rosacea, right?”
Courtesy of Sephora
Suddenly everything made sense. I got a prescription for a medicated topical cream, and after a couple of months, my flare-ups were mostly under control. To maintain these results, my derm recommended incorporating azelaic acid into my routine and sticking to it. The ingredient is known to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties, and is often used to target rosacea, acne, and hyperpigmentation.
After a trip to Sephora.com that tested my willpower—I somehow refrained from adding a bunch of new products to my cart—I settled on the Shani Darden Skin Care Rescue Serum With 10% Azelaic Complex. The brand’s eponymous founder is a celebrity aesthetician I’ve long admired. Her approach to skin care, both in her practice and with her line, is all about maximizing results while minimizing irritation—perfect for my current situation. In addition to azelaic acid, the Rescue Serum contains oat-kernel, aloe, and licorice extracts to fade the look of uneven skin tone, reduce redness, improve dryness, soothe, and brighten dullness.
Courtesy of Sephora
Shani Darden
I committed to using the product for 12 weeks, in hopes that I could get back to my glowing, clear, and unbothered pre-flare-up complexion. Here’s how it went:
As suggested by the brand, my plan is to start by applying the serum three times a week at night to see how my skin reacts (while azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, some people’s skin might need time to get used to it). I dispense two drops after using a micellar water and a hydrating toner. The formula has a milky appearance and a silky feel and absorbs quickly, leaving my skin soft to the touch. I follow up with a nurturing moisturizer. In this first week of testing, I notice no irritation or dryness from the product.
I’m pleasantly surprised to see how glowy and smooth my skin looks and feels. These are the types of results I used to get from exfoliating with a strong glycolic-acid peel several times a week. After my rosacea diagnosis, my derm suggested that I stick to gentler products, and it turns out that didn’t mean sacrificing results.
I’m on vacation in Miami this week, and the Rescue Serum came along for the ride. Sun is a trigger for rosacea, so while I’m being diligent about SPF and seeking shade, I’ve been fully prepared for flare-ups to happen. But so far—perhaps thanks to this product—my skin has remained calm.
Feeling perhaps a little too confident, I’ve bumped up the frequency of application to once a day at night and introduced a new exfoliating toner into my routine. Although the toner is marketed for sensitive skin, I’ve been noticing sudden irritation and redness. I’m not sure whether this is due to the toner, the increased serum dosage, or the combination of the two, but either way, it’s time to revert back to the original plan.
I’m back to using the serum three times a week with a hydrating toner and have slotted in the exfoliating formula on the serum’s off-days. My skin has settled down and is back to looking bright and even. There are some residual red rosacea spots near my jawline, but since using the Rescue Serum, I’m noticing them less and less. What’s new is a dark spot on my cheek that made its presence known after my Miami trip. I’m hoping the Rescue Serum can also work its magic on that.
I haven’t noticed much of a change this week, but when tackling dark spots and uneven tone and texture, it’s all about patience and consistency.
Courtesy of Sephora
I’m traveling again, this time to Los Angeles. I went for a makeup-free hike one morning and took a few selfies, fully expecting I’d have to do some editing before posting them on my social feed, as has become routine since my skin started acting up. But after reviewing them, I was excited to see how clear my skin looked—no filters needed.
Week after week, I’m seeing results. The dark spot on my cheek that I noticed in week five has already improved, and my areas of redness are becoming a thing of the past. I’m excited to see even more progress as I continue using the serum.
I spent the weekend with my grandmother, who is my skin icon. She’s the person who bought me my first moisturizer and taught me the importance of skin care. At 97, she still has a complexion that looks smooth and plump. One morning as we were eating breakfast, she remarked at how “lit from within” my skin looks. Coming from her, this is high praise.
It’s been over two months of consistent use, and there’s still plenty of product left in the bottle, making the $68 price tag feel totally worth it. I’m going to experiment with adding another drop of product to my routine and see how my skin reacts.
I haven’t been sleeping well this week, and every time I see myself in the mirror, I feel like I look haggard. I was considering getting a facial when a co-worker walked by my desk and said, “Your skin is skinning,” before asking me what I’ve been using in my routine. It was the pick-me-up I needed, and proof that the serum has truly delivered noticeable results.
Coincidentally, it’s been a year since I first started having rosacea flare-ups, and I can say that my skin is now the best it’s looked in the journey. The clarity, radiance, and evenness of my complexion’s tone and texture have greatly improved, some of my sun spots have faded, and my skin is less red overall.
Sarah Ferguson
Final Thoughts
In the skin-care community, azelaic acid is often touted as a fix-all. While it may not be the solution to every skin problem, after this 12-week experience I can confidently say it’s worth the hype. You can find the ingredient in many great products at Sephora, but for me, the Shani Darden Skin Care Rescue Serum With 10% Azelaic Complex was the right choice. So many products claim to target redness, but few over-the-counter formulas have actually worked for me. The serum has helped me maintain my results from the medicated topical cream that first helped get my rosacea under control, while addressing my other top skin concerns like dark spots and uneven texture.
Usually when I’m close to finishing a product, I’m already thinking about what other potion I’m going to try next. This time around, I’ll be keeping Rescue Serum on repeat, as well as checking out the rest of the Shani Darden lineup on my next Sephora trip.
Shani Darden Skin Care Rescue Serum With 10% Azelaic Complex
