Our September cover star Rosalía, Lily Collins, Christopher Briney (a.k.a. Conrad Fisher), pom-poms, and a Kylie Minogue soundtrack—that was the scene at Veronica Leoni’s sophomore runway collection for Calvin Klein earlier this morning. In February, her debut revived ’90s minimalism, drawing from her prior experiences at brands like The Row and Jil Sander, enhancing gently crafted silhouettes with unique textures, appliqués, and enviable accessories. Today’s spring 2026 collection felt like a continuation of those same ideas, albeit with a subtly more eccentric touch.
Rosalía outside the Calvin Klein show.
Overall, many of the clothes were easily digestible and appealingly commercial, but still possessed plenty of classic Calvin Klein-isms for the more discerning eye. A tonal color palette—filled with serene grays, white, dusty blue, and a sudden, impossibly chic glossy pink suit—brought to mind Klein’s spring 1998 runway, which used a similar color break with a rose slip dress in the midst of light spring hues.
The trench coats and pantsuits were timeless—true signatures of the Calvin Klein design philosophy. One caramel fringe dress floated beautifully down the runway and felt aptly fitting for the week’s growing theme of breeziness, though its heavier counterpart—an all-white version made from leather—also made an appearance. Not to mention, metal-accented sandals adorned the feet of a few models. Uber-shiny accessories popped up at both Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors; they say three makes a trend, and Calvin Klein just cemented it.
Leoni also waded into sportier waters. Two models—one in semi-sheer logo waist-banded leggings and the other in a gleaming white caftan—donned athletic-inspired sunglasses, an interesting detail in the otherwise streamlined collection. Elsewhere, thickly stacked turtleneck collars added a slightly uncanny touch; one guest fondly likened them to the viral (and often recreated) Christopher Moltisanti neck brace ensemble from The Sopranos. For some more fun, pom-poms fell from both suit jackets and garter belts. (Speaking of, the cheery accessory made an appearance this morning at Nicholas Aburn’s Area debut, too.)
Overall, the spring runway showcased a more joyous side of the intellectually minimalist designer and left many looking forward to more collections to come.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
