Daniella Kallmeyer might have started out as a downtown favorite, but she has quickly captured the hearts of the rest of New York City, too. Since founding the brand in 2012, she has expanded her brick-and-mortar presence, opening a second boutique on Madison Avenue on the Upper East Side, and this year, she garnered her first CFDA nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year. (The category also includes heavy hitters like Ralph Lauren and Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera.) Her spring 2026 collection, which showed on Tuesday—only her third runway show in the 13 years she’s run the brand—was a reminder of why Kallmeyer is able to hold her own against other venerated American-based designers.
The brand is known for its sloping shapes—ruched tops, streamlined dresses, and gentle draping. The spring collection, shown on an intimate runway at Crane Club, was an introspective continuation of that, with cool-toned full-length evening jackets and A-line skirts offering a more mature exploration of her own portfolio, while the hypnotic synth track that played on loop enforced that meditative feeling.
The notably more formal silhouettes in this collection were a departure for the brand. Kallmeyer opted for heavier fabrics and layered pieces—like an enveloping brown coat over a black maxi dress or a pantsuit paired with a luxe gray-green blazer—over a cruise-like collection of white linens, more typical of a spring showing.
Ultimately, it was the styling that added a slight disruptive dimension to the overarching serenity of the clothing. For example, in one ensemble, a signature ruched top was paired with a gray knit skirt, while other looks featured striped shirts tied around the waist, cutting the silhouette in half. This off-kilter contrast mixed popular tricks with measured minimalism to create a middle ground where Kallmeyer shines.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
