For the past few years, Coach has steadily cemented itself with new-age influencers, TikTokers, and VIPs on the New York Fashion Week schedule, thanks to Stuart Vevers, who has been creative director for over a decade now. Distressed knits, cheeky prints, revitalized leather accessories, and a touch of teenage grunge have defined the brand’s last five years of design—with success, too. The Tabby bag and the in-house sustainable diffusion label, Coachtopia, have captured the hearts of Gen Z. Effectively, Vevers began to design “not your mom’s bag.” But this season, the spring 2026 runway aimed at a more polished—and perhaps more adult—version of that philosophy.
Vevers was inspired by the grit and resilience of New York City, an attitude that often comes with the shedding of youth. Similarly, as he referenced on Instagram, the collection represented “a patina of time.” Set to “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road” by Elton John, models paraded down the runway in baggy trousers, plaid shin-length skirts, and shrunken denim jackets; a white leather biker vest balanced out more fun graphic dresses and shredded jeans. Meanwhile, pieces of goldenrod suede added a luxe touch.
Focus remained largely on the accessories. The wallet-as-necklace agenda, also shown by Michael Kors, is off to a strong start this season: All 48 looks included coin purses worn around the neck on lanyard-length leather straps. Crossbodies were nowhere in sight; instead, clutches and mini duffels were tucked under arms, and handbags were perfectly work-sized. There still remained a signature touch of Coach’s whimsy here and there—tiny books were made into both earrings and bag charms. (The brand continues to smartly tap into the “accessorize your accessories” trend.)
Much of the collection felt fit for the first time you splurge on your own wardrobe. Perhaps that is the customer who Vevers often captures best.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
