Like other collections presented this week, Toteme kept the color palette to a minimum—and a largely binary one at that, with almost all the looks being black or white (there was a single pink collared shirt and golden shift dress). However, it could be argued that the Scandinavian husband-and-wife design duo, Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, is among the originators of this simplistic and subtle trend. The brand’s early influence in minimalist fashion is far-reaching, and its style can be seen in the way many young women aim to dress today.
Toteme’s talent lies largely in its ability to take a basic—say, a white tank top—and elevate it. Today, said tank top was sheer, crinkled, lightly drooping off the shoulder, and layered on top of another. The same tumble-dry-esque technique also appeared on a white tank-top dress and an oversize T-shirt styled over a pair of pleated cigarette trousers.
Again, featherweight fabric and breezy silhouettes permeated the spring runway, with the exception of a few leather-clad looks. From cropped trenches to barely-there shawls tugged over shoulders and hot pants revealed under a mostly unbuttoned shirtdress, the Toteme woman is ready for a regenerative spring. You see a swath of finely cut all-white ensembles and think, She just got back from a wellness retreat.
The underlying draw to many of these looks is their aspirational ease. Even so, the key to dressing this chic can often feel like a secret. (The show wasn’t livestreamed, the norm for most designers during fashion month.) And guarding that elusive skill is what’s made the Scandinavian pair so successful.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
